I started this week by modifiyng the connection points of the new control box panel switches so as to match the connections from the control box. Some alteration to the wiring of the control box was also necessary, due to the slightly different dimensions of the new switches. I decided the best way to do this was to mount all the switches on the support panel first, then fit that and complete the wiring after. In between doing this, I decided that the battery cable problem (too short) would be simply solved by mounting an isolator switch to a bracket bolted through the bottom rail of the body frame, just to the rear of the front O/S wheelarch. Work continued with fitting the top panel up with the starter and toggle switched, a slow process requiring minor alterations to components. As a break from that, I marked out the bracket for the isolator switch, which had arrived by then. The weather being very hot this week meant time spent in the bus shed was restricted, but the following tasks completed: soldering a ring tag to the end of the battery cable that will go from the isolator switch to the control box and making a suitable bracket to mount the isolator switch to the bottom outer frame rail, for which I used 2mm galvanised steel left over from the battery boxes. Last jobs of the week were to modify and fit the last panel switch and paint the isolator bracket ready for assembly and installation.
Tag Archives: battery cables
15/6/2025
A good start to the week, with all the battery cables now recovered and ready to fit. A good find by Ian on eBay was three replacement toggle switches for the control box top panel. I wasted a bit of time playing with the ammeter and various shunts, then fitted the nearside battery box, after spending some time hoovering underneath the bus so I could work there. The offside battery box was next, but despite having trial fitted it before, opening in the floor needed relieving. A brief hiccup occurred when I suffered a vertigo attack whilst under the bus, trying to feed the battery cable through to the cab. Progress was thus slow thereafter, I made an extension board for the positive cable but am weighing up the pros and cons of using it. I think a better plan would be to fit a battery isolator switch, which I have ordered.
8/6/2025
A reasonable start to the week, the main cover for the control box is primed with red oxide and needs a final rub down when its cured, then a coat of black. In the meantime I worked on the switches and found a broken connection between the “start” (i.e. power on”) switch and the main supply. I polished the engraved switch bezels ready for refitting. I managed to straighten the bent switch lever and released the stuck slider bearing on another. I also completed the second new brass slider, so now I have a full complement. I next cleaned the rust off the switch mounting plate and primed it with Jenolite red oxid, then sprayed the first topcoat onto the control box main cover. Whilst this was drying, I tested the starter button and found it unreliable, so looked out a new replacement. Then I affixed the switch bezels too the top panel. I painted the steel switch plate with matt black, something of a mistake as it went on like tar, then sprayed the final coat of gloss black on the main outer cover of the control box. Progress then slowed as I polished the starter bezel and blanking plug for the top panel, and also the ammeter bezel. I fitted the blanking plug and the bezel, the latter being a bit loose, but ran some superglue around the edge so hopefully it will be ok. The toggle switch bezels were also a bit a loose, so I glued those down too, hopefully they will stay in place now. I then discovered that the hole in the main cover was slightly too small for the ammeter and will require enlargeing, bah! I then changed my tack and made a press tool in Iroko to make cable clamps for the battery cables and possibly the speedo cable. Very satisfying to produce these items neatly and quickly in steel. I drilled these then reassembled the ammeter and the repaired toggle switch. I also sheathed the short link battery cable with heat shrink and started to sheath the long cable then decided to have a rest from that. I drilled, trimmed and primed and painted the U clamps next. Final job of the week was to fix the batery clamp uprights to the battery trieys, using twin-cable P-clips, rivetted to the base, to stop the uprights falling through. So, a good week for small jobs.